N O P Q R S T U V W X Y
A
Accuracy
How consistently the watch keeps time, not specifically whether it is showing the exact time, although that is part of a watch's accuracy. A watch that gains or loses exactly the same amount of time every day is considered accurate.
Acrylic Crystal
Made from a plastic composite, making it generally less expensive but also less durable than a crystal made of sapphire or minerals. Acrylic crystals flex rather than shatter on impact, produce less glare under bright light for easy readability, and are easily polished. Also known as Hesolite.
AGSL
The American Gem Society Laboratories (founded 1934) is a highly respected, independent gemological laboratory whose expert gemologists grade diamond quality and provide a grading report (which they call a "Diamond Quality Document") for each stone they grade. The AGS rates a diamond's Cut using their own grading scale of 0 to 10:
AGS Cut Grading Scale
0………………..Ideal
1………………..Excellent
2………………..Very Good
3, 4…………….Good
5, 6, 7………….Fair
8, 9, 10………..Poor
Alloy
Mixture of two or more metals.
AGTA
The American Gem Trade Association is a top authority on grading gemstones in the jewelry industry.
Akoya Pearls
Most popular cream-colored pearl. Millions of Akoya pearls are cultured on pearl farms before being sorted, matched, and sold as jewelry. For more information, read our education on pearls.
Altimeter
Device determining altitude by measuring the change in barometric pressure around it. Commonly found in pilot watches. An altimeter will register as if it were on the ground in a pressurized airplane cabin.
Amethyst
Crystallized, transparent quartz stone typically found in violet or purple and often available at a moderate price. Can be damaged by sharp blows or extreme heat. Amethyst is the birthstone for February.
Analog-Digital Display
A watch showing the time using hands (an analog display) in addition to numbers (a digital display). The analog display is the traditional dial with hands to mark the hours and minutes and sometimes a third hand to mark the seconds. A liquid crystal is usually used in digital displays. Sport watches often have analog-digital displays.
Annual Calendar
A watch showing the day of the week, month, and date in addition to the normal 24 hours. Annual calendar watches adjust automatically for short and long months and need to be set only once a year at the end of February (the shortest month) to the 1st of March.
Aperture
Small openings in the dials of some watches that provide the date, the hour, or some other function. Also known in French as "montres à guichet."
Appraisal
A written estimate of the approximate retail replacement value of diamond jewelry that may be used for insurance coverage or other purposes. Different from grading reports, which do not provide any suggestion of monetary value and only report on the quality of the item. An appraisal can include the following: a brief description and photograph of the item; and the cut, color, clarity, and size of the item (carat weight for diamonds or millimeter dimensions for other gemstones). Your insurance agency relies on an appraisal in calculating a coverage rate for your diamond or piece of fine jewelry.
Aquamarine
A blue, semiprecious stone in the beryl family. Aquamarine is the birthstone for March. Can be damaged by sharp blows or extreme heat.
Authorized Watch
A watch sold by an authorized watch retailer. Watches purchased from an authorized watch retailer come direct from the manufacturer, are guaranteed to be new and original, and are covered under the manufacturer's warranty.
Atmosphere (Atm)
Unit of pressure used to indicate the water resistance of a watch.
Atomic Time Standard
Official time provided by the U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology, Time and Frequency Division, Boulder, Colorado. Atomic time is measured through vibrations of atoms in a metal isotope that resembles mercury, resulting in extremely accurate time. This exact time is transmitted by radio waves throughout North America. Some "atomic" watches can receive these transmissions and correct themselves automatically to the exact time. To synchronize your watch with atomic standard time, call (303) 499-7111.
Automatic Movement/Automatic Winding
A type of mechanical watch movement wound by the motion of the wearer's arm instead of by turning the winding stem (a manual mechanical movement). The motions of the arm make a rotor in the watch turn that winds the watch's mainspring. This type of watch movement is only found in fine watches. Most automatic watches have up to 36 hours of power reserve. However, if an automatic watch is not worn for a day or two, it will wind down and will need to be either wound by hand or rocked for one or two minutes to restart. Also known as "self-winding."
B
Baguette
Small, rectangular-shaped stones with facets.
Bail (Bale)
A folded metal piece (or finding) from which a pendant, watch, stone, etc. may be hung from a chain or cord.
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Bar Setting
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| A stone setting using a thin metal bar to hold the stones in place on either side, so that each bar has a stone on either side of it. Bar setting is often used in circular bands. Similar to a channel setting. |
Baroque pearl
Any pearl not of uniform shape, such as a teardrop-shaped pearl.
Battery EOL
The Battery End Of Life indicator warns you that your watch battery is about to fail by making the second hand jump in intervals of two (or sometimes four) seconds. There is usually a period of two weeks before complete battery failure.
Battery
Most watches use silver oxide batteries that provide 1.5 volts of energy for anywhere from 1 to 5 years. Lithium batteries, which are also used in watches, can last as long as 10 years and provide 3 volts of energy. Always replace your watch battery with the same type of battery.
Battery Life
The period of time that the battery provides power to your watch. The battery starts working the moment it is installed at the manufacturer. Depending on how long the watch has been on the shelf, the battery may die soon after purchase. A new battery should be installed by a watch repair shop or an authorized dealer. An authorized watch dealer can replace most 1-year batteries with batteries that have a longer life span. Automatic movement/automatic winding watches will never need a battery change.
Battery-Less Quartz
A modern hybrid watch using a quartz movement powered by a small electric current generator operated by a rotor. Electricity generated by the movement of the rotor is stored up to keep the watch running. Like an automatic movement/automatic winding watch, battery-less quartz watches also must be worn regularly to maintain a power reserve. Also known as the brand names Kinetic (Seiko), Omega-matic (Omega), and Auto quartz (Invicta).
Beryl
A family of lightly colored minerals, including the emerald (a transparent, dark green variety) and aquamarine (a blue variety).
Beveled
A part or surface that is angled, usually at an angle other than a right angle.
Bezel, Watch
Any part having a continuous groove to fit something, usually a stone. The metal at the top of the groove is burnished over the edge of the stone to hold it by the stone's girdle to form a setting. The bezel protects the stone while still allowing light to enter the stone. In watches, the bezel is the ring around the outside of the crystal on the upper part of the watch body. A watch bezel may contain a ring of diamonds for jewelry watches or be calibrated and/or have the ability to turn in one (unidirectional) or two (bidirectional) directions for sports watches, especially watches for measuring time elapsed while diving underwater.
Bezel Facet
The facet located on the crown or top portion of a diamond. Also known as the "kite" facet because of its shape.
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Bezel Setting
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| A bezel setting holds a stone in place using a thin band of metal that surrounds the stone at its middle, or girdle. It can completely or partially surround the stone, depending on the style and look desired. This type of setting provides good protection for the middle and bottom (pavilion) portions of the stone. |
Bidirectional Rotating Bezel
A bezel that moves in two directions for mathematical calculations or for measuring time elapsed while diving underwater. Usually found in sports watches.
Birthstones
Stones traditionally associated with a specific month that are often used in jewelry celebrating the month of a birthday, anniversary, etc. Although birthstone traditions have existed since the 15th century and different lists of birthstones exist, the (British) National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) created the following official list in 1937:
January Garnet
February Amethyst
March Aquamarine
April Diamond
May Emerald
June Pearl
July Ruby
August Peridot
September Sapphire
October Opal
November Citrine
December Tanzanite
Blemish
Any flaw on the surface of a gem.
Body color
The basic color of a pearl: white, cream, yellow, pink, silver, or black. A pearl can also have a hint of a secondary color (called an "overtone"). For more information, read our education on pearl color. See also Overtone.
Box and Tongue Clasp
A v-shaped wire that fits into a small tube and locks into place. The snap may be square on broader necklaces.
Box Chain
A chain with wide, square links that form boxes.
Bracelet band
A watchband made up of metal links.
Brilliance
The effect of light reflecting up through the surface of a diamond. Can be enhanced by the proportions of the cut of the diamond. See also Fire.
Brilliant cut
Any cut with 57 or 58 facets that are mathematically arranged to create the greatest level of brilliance. Can be used in several diamond shapes: round, oval, radiant (basically square), pear-shaped, or heart-shaped. For more information, read our education on diamond cut.
Bruise
Minor chip or concussion on the face of the stone creating root-like lines inside the diamond. Bruises can effect the grade of clarity of a diamond. Diamonds with higher clarity grades may have bruises that are invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification.
C
Cable Chain
A chain with round links of uniform size.
Cabochon
Gemstone shape resembling a dome because of its highly polished, curved surface and absence of faceting. The onyx and star sapphire are commonly cut in this shape. Decorative stones in watch crowns are also found in this shape.
Calcium carbonate
Main mineral component of a pearl's outer layers. See also Nacre.
Calendar
Watch function ranging from just a window showing the date to a triple calendar window showing the date, day of the week, and month. Combinations of dial windows and pointer hands are often used. Complicated calendar mechanisms (also known as perpetual calendars) may be programmed to show the year and month, including months with less that 31 days, and allow for leap years.
Carat
A unit of diamond weight with 1 carat equal to 200 milligrams or 0.2 grams. Diamonds are always measured when not mounted in a setting for greater accuracy. Sometimes expressed in points, with 1 carat equal to 100 points (for example, a half-carat diamond would have 50 points). Points in a fraction of one carat are measured within ranges, so that a three-quarter carat diamond may have between 69 and 82 points and still be considered a three-quarter carat diamond. The following is a table of size and weight ranges:
Fraction Points
1/10 ct 9 - 11
1/8 ct 12 - 13
1/7 ct 14 - 15
1/6 ct 16 - 17
1/5 ct 18 - 22
1/4 ct 23 - 28
1/3 ct 29 - 36
3/8 ct 37 - 34
1/2 ct 45 - 58
5/8 ct 59 - 68
3/4 ct 69 - 82
7/8 ct 83 - 94
1.0 ct 98 - 105
Although carat weight is a major part of a diamond's value, diamonds of equal carat weight may differ in price due to other factors, such as their cut, color, and clarity. Diamond values increase disproportionately as the size of the stone increases. For example, a two-carat stone can cost more than three times per carat than a one-carat stone because of the rarity of larger stones. A stone of a particular cut, clarity, and color will increase greatly in price when you increase the number of carats. For more information, read our education on diamond carat weight.
Carat Total Weight (ct. tw.)
The combined or total weight in carats of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry.
Case
The metal, usually stainless steel, that houses the bezel and face. Titanium, which is more durable and lighter than stainless steel, is also used in higher quality watch cases. Precious metals such as gold, silver, and platinum can also be used for watch cases.
Cavity
A tiny opening in the diamond where a piece of the stone is missing. Diamonds with higher clarity grades may have cavities invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification.
Certificate, Diamond
Documentation from an independent gemological laboratory certifying the quality of the diamond purchased. Skilled gemologists using specialized equipment measure and evaluate each diamond's particular characteristics and attributes and document their findings in written form. This certification is also known as a diamond grading report or diamond quality document. The gemologists determine the diamond's value by its cut, clarity, color and carat weight. The certification also contains a diagram of the diamond showing any inclusions or flaws. BrightDiamond.com offers certification on all diamonds from one of these three highly reputable, independent gemological laboratories: the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL), or the International Gemological Institute (IGI).
A diamond certificate from an independent laboratory is not an appraisal and cannot be used to determine the monetary value of a particular stone for insurance purposes. A diamond certificate can only be used as an impartial, professional estimate of the quality of the diamond.
Chalcedony
Various types of colored stone, including milky, carnelian, agate, cat's eye, and jasper.
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Channel Setting
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| Two strips of metal (gold, platinum, etc.) secure the stones (usually in a row and of uniform size) in place at the sides with no metal between the stones. This setting protects the girdle of the stone and can hold small stones better than a prong setting. Channel-set stones sit flush with the mounting, making them less likely to snag on hair or clothing. |
Chip
Small piece broken off the surface of a diamond, often caused by cutting or a sharp blow. Large chips can result in significant weight loss of the diamond. Diamonds having a high clarity grade may have chips invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification.
Choker
A pearl necklace 16 inches in length.
Chronograph
A watch with timing functions displayed in smaller dials (or subdials) on the face of the watch, often found in sports watches with a stopwatch function. Most chronographs feature three subdials that measure fractions of seconds, minutes in increments other than 60, and hours in increments other than one hour. May also have a tachometer function to determine speed or telemeter function to determine distance. Different from a chronometer, which is a watch meeting the accuracy standards of the official watch institute of Switzerland, the COSC (Control Officile Suisse de Chronometers or Swiss Controle Officiel des Cronometres).
Chronograph Rattrapante
A chronograph with a flyback hand (or rattrapante) that allows the measurement of split-second times or the timing of two simultaneous events.
Chronometer
A precision watch meeting the accuracy standards of the official watch institute of Switzerland, the COSC (Control Officile Suisse de Chronometers or Swiss Controle Officiel des Cronometres), after testing under various temperatures and conditions. The COSC provides a chronometer certifcate detailing specific test results for such watches.
Citrine
A variety of quartz that is brownish-orange or golden in color and is available at a moderate price. Citrine is the birthstone for November. Can be damaged by sharp blows or extreme heat.
Clarity
The amount of inclusions (internal flaws such as crystals [mineral deposits], clouds [specs or hazy areas], or feathers [small cracks]) or blemishes (surface flaws such as cavities or chips) a diamond or gemstone has as measured under low (10x) magnification. The size and location of the inclusions and blemishes determine the diamond's clarity grade. The clarity scale for diamonds ranges from flawless (FL), for a stone with no internal or external flaws, to severely included (I3), for a stone having many flaws visible to the naked eye. For more information, read our education on diamond clarity. {LINK?}
The Gemological Institute of America's (GIA) Clarity Grading Scale is as follows:
F
Flawless. The diamond shows no inclusions or blemishes of any sort under 10X magnification when observed by an experienced grader. IF Internally Flawless. The diamond has no inclusions when examined by an experienced grader using 10X magnification, but will have some minor blemishes. VVS1, VVS2 Very, Very slightly included. The diamond contains minute inclusions that are difficult even for experienced graders to see under 10X magnification. VS1, VS2 Very slightly included. The diamond contains minute inclusions such as small crystals, clouds or feathers when observed with effort under 10X magnification. SI1, SI2 Slightly included. The diamond contains inclusions (clouds, included crystals, knots, cavities, and feathers) that are noticeable to an experienced grader under 10X magnification. I1, I2, I3 Included. The diamond contains inclusions (possibly large feathers or large included crystals) that are obvious under 10X magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.
Truly flawless diamonds are extremely rare, so it is acceptable that the diamond isn't perfect as long as any inclusions or blemishes do not affect the stone's attractiveness or durability. Slight inclusions or blemishes are identifying characteristics that individualize your diamond and make it easier to identify using a certification or grading report. However, differences in clarity grade will result in a difference in price, all other aspects of the stone being equal.
Clasp, Watch
The attachment mechanism used to connect the two ends of the watch bracelet around the wrist.
Cleavage
A tiny, straight crack inside the diamond along a plane of weakness. A diamond can still receive a very high clarity grade if the cleavage has no effect on the diamond's structural integrity and is not visible to the naked eye when viewed with the face up. However, if the cleavage extends to one or more surfaces of the diamond, it could compromise the diamond's integrity.
Cloud
An inclusion or internal flaw caused by a group of tiny specs that affects the clarity of a diamond and often resulting in a cloudy or milky appearance. These specs are made up of crystals too small to see individually under low (10x) magnification. In diamonds having very high clarity grades, clouds may be invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification.
Cluster Ring
A ring setting in which the stones are mounted together or clustered, often with several small stones surrounding a central, larger stone.
Cluster Setting
A ring setting in which the stones are mounted together or clustered, often with several small stones surrounding a central, larger stone.
Cocktail Ring
An oversized ring with a setting containing precious or semiprecious stones.
Color
The color of the diamond or stone. In diamonds, generally the less color a diamond has, the more valuable it is, because less color allows light to refract more purely and thus sparkle with more brilliance or fire. The ideal diamond is colorless, although a truly colorless diamond is rare. Diamond colors can range from colorless to slightly yellow or brown to the rarer and more expensive colors pink, green, or blue (also known as "fancy" diamonds). Excluding "fancy" diamonds, the ideal color for a diamond is colorless, although this is extremely rare.
The Gemological Institute of America's (GIA) color scale rates diamonds on the visible amount of body color as seen through the side of the diamond when not mounted in a setting, which is the most accurate method, because settings (such as gold) can add a tint of their own color into a diamond.
The color grading system for diamonds uses the letters of the alphabet from D through Z, with each letter representing a different range of color.
Diamonds with a color grade of D, E, or F are considered colorless; G, H, I, and J are near colorless; K, L, and M have a faint yellow tint; N, O, P, Q, and R have a very light yellow tint; and S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, and Z are light yellow. Diamonds graded as more than "Z" in color are considered "fancy" diamonds and are more valuable than even light yellow diamonds.
Color is only one of the factors determining the value of a diamond. A diamond with a colorless grade but that has imperfections or is poorly cut is less valuable than a faint yellow diamond with a superior cut and greater clarity.
Comfort Fit
A metal ring band designed with a rounded inside edge for more comfortable wear.
Coral
The skeletal remains of small marine animals often used in jewelry. Ranges in color from red to pink to black.
Corundum
Family of gemstones composed of crystallized aluminum and oxygen. The most valuable types of corundum are the ruby and sapphire.
COSC
The Control Officile Suisse de Chronometers or Swiss Controle Officiel des Cronometres is the independent Swiss regulatory organization that tests and certifies watch movements for chronometer status.
Countdown Timer
Watch function allowing the user to preset an amount of time and follow how much of that time has elapsed. Some feature a warning signal a few seconds before the time runs out. Useful in yacht racing, which requires the sailor to position the yacht before the start of the race. Also known as a yacht timer.
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Crown, Diamond
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| The top section of a diamond above its widest point (girdle) and surrounding the table. |
Crown, Watch
In watches, the crown (also known as the winding crown) is the side knob used for winding non-automatic mechanism watches or for setting the date in watches with calendar functions. In sports watches, the crown may be a screw-down crown screwed down onto a threaded tube to enhance the water resistance of the watch.
Crown Angle
The angle, measured in degrees, formed by the facets of the upper portion or crown of the stone. The distance from the widest point (girdle) to the flat facet at the top of the stone (table) determines whether the crown is thick, thin, or ideal in proportion. A high crown will have a steep crown angle. A thin crown will have a shallow crown angle. The angles at which the crown and the facets below the girdle (pavilion facets) are cut affect the diamond's ability to refract light and thus affect the diamond's brilliance or fire.
Crystal, Diamond
In diamonds, a type of inclusion or internal flaw. Crystals are mineral deposits or air bubbles trapped inside the diamond and are indicated on certificates or diamond grading reports. A diamond's value can be affected by the location and size of the crystal. Diamonds with a high clarity grade may have crystals that are invisible to the naked eye or hard to see under low (10x) magnification.
Crystal, Watch
In watches, the crystal is the cover over the watch dial. The three common types of watch crystals are acrylic crystals (an inexpensive plastic that allows shallow scratches to be buffed out), mineral crystals (several heat-treated mineral elements that are harder than acrylic and resist scratching), and sapphire crystals (made of sapphire, the most expensive and durable, and approximately three times harder than mineral crystals and 20 times harder than acrylic crystals). Some watch crystals, especially those used in sports watches, have a non-reflective coating to prevent glare.
Crystal Skeleton Caseback
Back of a watch case made of transparent material such as hardened mineral crystal or sapphire crystal allowing that reveals the intricate movement of the watch.
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Culet
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| The point on the bottom of a lower part of a diamond below the girdle (the pavilion). Some culets are formed into a facet, whereas others come to a point. A culet that is visible only as a tiny point where the facets of the pavilion meet and there is no flat edge is preferred. The culets of some older diamonds cut in Europe can be seen through the table of the diamond. Round diamonds have either 58 or 57 facets depending on whether the culet has been faceted or not. |
Cultured Pearl
A pearl created by mimicking the natural process in a controlled setting by inserting a small bead made of mother-of-pearl and mantle tissue from another oyster into the oyster. The oyster then begins the process of layering nacre over the bead that eventually becomes a pearl. Kokichi Mikimoto patented this method of artificially culturing pearls in 1916.
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Cushion-Cut
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| A stone shape with rounded corners and large facets. Also known as pillow-cut. |
Cut
The geometric proportions of the diamond that allow light to refract within the diamond to create brilliance or fire.
Cyclops
A small window or lens in a watch crystal that magnifies the date 2.5 times for easier reading. See also Magnified Window.
D
Diamond
Gemstone consisting of pure crystallized carbon shaped into a crystallized form by the pressure created by a mixture of liquids, gases, and crystals deep inside the Earth over a long period of time, with some diamonds being 1 to 3 billion years old. Diamonds are the hardest substance known to man and can only be cut or polished by another diamond, although a blow struck at the right angle can chip or break a diamond.
Diamond-Cut
Process in which angled cuts are made into gold.
Deployment Buckle
Watch buckle that secures the two ends of the bracelet while allowing enough room for putting the watch on when completely deployed. The buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism when closed. Also known as a foldover.
Depth
In a diamond, the distance from the top of the diamond (table) to the bottom of the diamond (culet). Also known as the height of the diamond.
Depth Alarm
An alarm found on sports watches for divers that sounds when a preset depth has been exceeded and stops sounding when the diver ascends above the preset depth.
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Depth Percentage
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| The height of a gemstone measured from the top (table) to the bottom (culet) of the stone divided by the width of the stone at its widest point (girdle). The depth percentage is used in creating the brilliance or fire of a diamond, because a depth percentage that is too low or too high will be disproportionate and refract light poorly. A diamond that is too shallow and has a low depth percentage allows light to escape out the top and bottom and appears to contain a dark ring-like shadow when viewed from above (sometimes called a "fisheye"). A diamond that is too tall and has a high depth percentage allows light to escape out the sides and appears to contain a dark center (sometimes called a "nailhead"). Diamond certification or grading reports often indicate depth percentage when determining the quality of the cut of the diamond.. |
Depth Sensor/Depth Meter
Device found on sports watches for divers that measures water pressure to determine the depth of a dive. The depths is shown either by analog hands on a scale on the watch dial or by a digital display.
Diver's Watch
Sports watch specifically designed for diving that usually features a rotating bezel, screw down winding crown, and caseback to be water resistant to at least 200 m or 660 feet.
Dual Time/Second Time Zone Bezel
A rotating bezel that displays a separate time zone from that shown on the main dial.
Dual Time
A watch that simultaneously displays current local time and the time in at least one other time zone by means of a twin dial, extra hand, subdial, or other means.
E
Earring Back
Disk or bead fitting over an earring post to hold an earring safely in place.
EGL
European Gemological Laboratory (established 1974). Well-respected, international independent laboratory with offices in Antwerp, New York, Los Angeles, Johannesburg, Paris, Israel and Seoul whose trained gemologists grade diamond quality and provide diamond certification or grading reports with each stone they grade. The EGL also provides educational courses in diamonds and diamond grading.
Elapsed Time Rotating Bezel
A graduated rotating bezel that measures elapsed periods of time. The bezel can be turned to align the zero on the bezel with the watch's minute or seconds hands and can then be read to determine the elapsed time.
Embossed
Unique grain effects permanently imprinted into leather using heat and pressure.
Emerald
A green variety of the beryl family of gemstones. Emerald is the birthstone for May.
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Emerald Cut
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| Rectangular (sometimes square) gemstone cut usually found in diamonds that has rows of step cuts along the edges and at the corners. |
Engine Turning
Decorative engraving usually found on the dial of a watch.
Enhancements
Special treatments, such as heating and oiling, acceptable in the process of gemstone cutting and polishing as long as they are permanent, do not falsely add to the beauty of the stone, and only work with the natural potential beauty of the stone.
EOL
End of Life of watch batteries. In quartz watch movements, the second hand jumps two to four seconds to indicate the end of battery life.
European Wire
Curved wire that passes through the earlobe of a pierced ear and clasps shut.
External Reflection
The light that is reflected back by the polished surface of a diamond in addition to the primary brilliance of the light refracted internally within a diamond. Finely polished diamonds will display a greater degree of brilliance.
Extra Facet
A diamond having one more facet than normally found in a particular cutting style, usually to eliminate an imperfection near the surface.
Eye-Clean
A gemstone with no flaws or inclusions that can seen by the naked eye but that can be seen under magnification.
F
Facet
The flat, polished surfaces of a gemstone cut in geometric relation to one another to enhance the stone's ability to reflect and refract light and create brilliance or fire. A round, brilliant-cut diamond has 58 facets.
Faceted
A gemstone that has been cut into a geometric arrangement of flat, polished surfaces or facets.
Feather
An internal flaw or inclusion in a diamond consisting of a small fracture resembling a bird's feather that touches the surface of the stone. Diamonds having high clarity grades may have feathers that are invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification. Diamond certificates or grading reports will indicate any feathers in the diamond.
Filigree
Intertwined wires intricately arranged into a lace-like ornamental pattern on jewelry.
Finding
Parts used in the making of jewelry such as clasps, hooks, pin backs, earring backs, etc.
Fire
The effect of light reflecting up through the surface of a diamond. Can be enhanced by the proportions of the cut of the diamond. See also Brilliance.
Fish-Hook
A "J"-shaped earring part whose hook end passes through the pierced ear.
Fluorescence
The light emitted by a diamond under ultraviolet light. Only found in a small percentage of diamonds. Fluorescence strength (and sometimes color; e.g., white, yellow, or blue) is indicated in a diamond certificate or grading report. A strong or very strong fluorescence grade can make a near-colorless diamond appear even whiter, but in some cases may create a slightly hazy or oily appearance. Diamonds with strong or very strong fluorescence grades can be lower in value.
Flyback
Additional watch hand on a chronograph that moves with the second hand but can be stopped independently to measure a different interval of time and still be able to "fly back" to match up with the other hand. Useful in measuring individual lap times while simultaneously measuring the total race time. See also Split Second.
Freshwater Pearl
A pearl produced by an oyster in a fresh-water lake or river. For more information, read our education on pearls.
G
Garnet
A family of semi-precious stones reddish-brown in color ranging from true red to violet to blackish red. The name garnet derives from the resemblance to red pomegranate seeds. Garnet is the birthstone for January.
Gasket
Rubber or plastic ring sealing and protecting a watch's internal mechanism against dust, moisture and water.
Genuine Pearl
Smooth, round growth formed by the layering of nacre within an oyster in response to an irritant.
GIA
Gemological Institute of America (established 1931). Nonprofit educational resource for the gem and jewelry industry and the universally accepted authority on diamonds. The GIA's Gem Trade Laborarory is an independent lab whose trained gemologists grade diamond quality and provide a diamond certificate or grading report with each stone.
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Girdle
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| The widest part of the diamond separating the upper and lower sections of the stone. Girdle thickness can vary depending on the facets of the cut but should be even all around the diamond. A girdle that is too thin may chip too easily, whereas a girdle that is too thick may not refract light properly and have less brilliance. Jewelry settings usually hold the diamond around the girdle. |
GMT Timezone
Greenwich Mean Time as determined by the international clock in Greenwich, England, indicates by an additional hour hand the world time on a 24-hour scale. Used by pilots worldwide. Also known as Zulu Time.
Gold
Precious yellow metal used in jewelry because of its combination of strength and most malleability and its reistance to any corrosion or rust. Gold is often used in alloys because it can sometimes be too soft in its pure state for use in jewelry, bracelets, or watches. The percentage of gold in an alloy is measured in Karats (K). 24-Karat gold is 100% pure gold, 18-Karat gold is 75% gold, and 12-Karat gold is 50% gold. See also Karat.
Grade
Independent laboratories such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL), and the International Gemological Institute (IGI) grade individual diamonds against a master set of diamonds according to a set of grading guidelines common to the industry. An individual diamond's grades are compiled into a diamond certificate or grading report that can be used in assessing the value of the diamond. See also GIA, AGSL, and IGI.
Grading Report
Documentation from an independent gemological laboratory certifying the quality of the diamond purchased. Skilled gemologists using specialized equipment measure and evaluate each diamond's particular characteristics and attributes and document their findings in written form. This grading report is also known as a diamond certificate or diamond quality document. The gemologists determine the diamond's value by its cut, clarity, color and carat weight. The grading report also contains a diagram of the diamond showing any inclusions or flaws. BrightDiamond.com offers a grading report on all diamonds from one of these three highly reputable, independent gemological laboratories: the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL), or the International Gemological Institute (IGI).
A diamond grading report from an independent laboratory is not an appraisal and cannot be used to determine the monetary value of a particular stone for insurance purposes. A diamond grading report can only be used as an impartial, professional estimate of the quality of the diamond.
H
Handwinding (Manual Mechanical)
Watch with a manual mechanical movement requiring winding using the winding knob or crown to store up energy in the mainspring to power the watch.
Head
Metal basket and prongs that secure the center stone (or solitaire) in place.
Head-Size Range
Range of diamond sizes as measured in carats that can be mounted into a particular type of head.
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Heart-Shaped
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| A gemstone cut into a heart shape. Heart-shaped diamonds have nearly round pavilions that enhance the brilliance of the diamond. |
Height
The height of a pendant, earring, or other piece of jewelry as measured vertically from the top to the bottom. Usually an estimated average height.
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Hidden Clasp With Safety
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| Clasp with an additional safety, usually for precious jewelry. Opened by unsnapping the safety latch, pushing down on the tab until it unlocks, and then gently pulling apart. |
High Polish
Surface polished to a mirror-like finish.
Hook Clasp
Clasp with an arm that locks underneath when closed. Opened by lifting the tab gently.
HRD
Hoge Raad vor Diamont (founded 1976). Prestigious independent European gemological grading laboratory based in Antwerp, Belgium.
Hue
Classification of gemstone color indicating whether the main color is completely true or if another color is present (usually in slight amounts).
I
Iridescent
The interaction of various rainbow-like colors.
Ideal Cut
Specific guidelines for the ideal proportions for cutting a diamond to maximize the refraction of light and obtain the greatest amount of brilliance or fire. Marcel Tolkowsky (called "The Father of the American Brilliant Cut"), a diamond cutter and mathematician, originated the idea of using 58 facets cut to specific proportions for maximum brilliance in 1919. An ideal cut allows the light entering the diamond to be reflected and dispersed through the top (table) rather than through the the sides or bottom by using good overall symmetry (the table and girdle are parallel and the culet and table are well centered) and by the alignment and symmetry of the facets in addition to excellent surface polish.
IGI
International Gemological Institute (founded 1975). One of the largest, most respected gemological institutions in the world with an independent laboratory whose trained gemologists grade diamond quality and provide a diamond certificate or grading report along with each stone they grade. The IGI has offices in Antwerp, New York, Bangkok, and Mumbai.
Inclusion
Trace mineral, fracture, or other imperfection such as a cloud, crystal, and feather contributing to the uniqueness or fingerprint of a gemstone. Inclusions are created naturally during the formation of the stone and appear in almost all stones. A truly flawless diamond with no inclusions is extremely rare.
Indented Natural
Small, indented edge of the original rough diamond crystal left unpolished on the surface of the final, polished diamond. Usually positioned by the cutter in either in the girdle or the pavilion to it undetectable to the naked eye in the face-up position. Diamonds with higher clarity grades may have inclusions that are invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification.
J
Jewels, Watch
In watches, jewels are used as mechanical parts because of their greater resistance to wear and tear due to the friction of the watch's mechanisms. The jewels used are usually inexpensive synthetic sapphires or rubies and do not add any monetary value to a watch. The number of jewels is sometimes inscribed on the back of the watch case (for example, 25 Jewels). A greater number of jewels does not necessarily indicate a higher quality watch.
Jump Hour Indicator
Substitute for an hour hand in a watch that indicates the hour numerically in a window on the dial. The indicator "jumps" from number to number rather than showing the intermediate times of the hour as an hour hand would. A jump hour indicator watch usually has the traditional minutes and seconds hands.
K
Karat or Karatage
Measurement of the amount of gold in an alloy compound. Also known as gold purity because gold is often a mixture or alloy of gold and other metals because gold can sometimes be too soft in its pure state for use in jewelry. Karats (abbreviated as "K") are expressed as fractions of 1/24th. For example 24-Karat gold is 100% pure gold, 18-Karat gold is 75% gold, and 12-Karat gold is 50% gold. See also Gold.
Kinetic
Brand name of the line of battery-less quartz watch made by Seiko. See also Battery-Less Quartz. line of Kinetic watches.
Knot
Tiny crystal of diamond or other mineral reaching the surface of the diamond. Diamonds having a a higher clarity grade may have knots invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification.
Knotted Pearl Strand
Intricate knots tied in the strand connecting a string of pearls to prevent the pearls from rubbing against each other and damaging their surfaces.
L
Lap Memory
Function in sports watches that allows the user to save the individual lap times of a race and recall them on a digital display.
Lap Timer
Function in a chronograph used to time laps or segments of a race. At the end of each lap or segment, the user stops the timer, which then returns to zero and begins timing the next lap or segment.
Laser Drill Hole
Pinpoint-sized surface hole and microscopic tunnel drilled into a diamond by a laser usually to remove an internal inclusion. Considered an artificial form of enhancement.
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Latch Earring Back
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| Hinged arm that closes and snaps into a u-shape lock on earrings |
LCD Display (Liquid Crystal Display)
Digital watch display showing the time electronically using a thin layer of liquid held between two transparent plates. Modern version of Light Emitting Diode (LED) display of earlier digital watches that used more power and could only be shown when a button was pressed so as to save power. LCD displays use less power and can display the time constantly with minimal power use.
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Lever-Back
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| Unique, old-fashioned earring back that delicately bends and latches behind the ear. |
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Length-to-Width Ratio
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| Ratio of length to width in non-round-shaped stones such as marquise, pear, hearts, etc. The length-to-width ratio compares the length of a diamond to its width to determine how how relatively square or rectangular a fancy-shaped diamond appears when viewed from the top. A perfectly square diamond would have a length-to-width ratio of 1. |
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Lobster Claw Clasp
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| Necklace or bracelet clasp featuring an elongated hook resembling a lobster claw that contains a spring mechanism and can be opened to catch the ring from the other end of the chain. The pressure of the spring keeps the arm closed. |
Loupe
Small magnifying glass for viewing gemstones at usually low (10x) magnification. Any flaws that cannot be detected at low (10x) magnification are considered nonexistent.
Lugs
Extensions on both sides of the watchcase where the bracelet or strap is attached.
Luster
The combination of the pearl's surface shine and internal glow. Created by the reflection of light by the calcium crystals within the layers of the pearl's nacre. For more information, read our education on pearls.
M
Mabe Pearl
Pearl created when a hollow blister grows on the inside of an oyster's shell rather than in the oyster's tissue. These hollow, fragile, dish-shaped pearls must be mounted in a setting.
Magnified Window
A small window or lens in a watch crystal that magnifies the date 2.5 times for easier reading. See also Cyclops.
Make
Proportions to which a diamond has been cut to maximize the refraction of light and enhance the brilliance or fire. A diamond with a poor make will have reflect light poorly and have little brilliance or fire because of the way it was cut. Should not be used as a substitute for a certified cut grade.
Manual Winding
Watch with a manual mechanical movement requiring winding using the winding knob or crown to store up energy in the mainspring to power the watch.
Markers
Visual marks on the watch indicating minutes or hours.
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Marquise-Cut
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| A fancy-shape gemstone cut in an oval shape with pointed ends often used to maximize carat weight and give the appearance of a larger-looking gemstone. Often set with round or pear-shaped side stones for contrast. Because of the length of the cut, can make fingers appear long and slender when used in ring settings. |
Matinee Length
Pearl necklace 24 inches in length.
Matte
Non-shiny, frosted surface.
Mechanical Movement
Watch movement in which a winding knob or crown is wound to store up energy in a mainspring to power the watch. The mainspring unwinds in an even motion to provide accurate timekeeping. A manual mechanical watch needs to be wound consistently. However, an automatic mechanical watch requires no winding because of a rotor that winds the mainspring using the energy of the wearer's movement.
Metal, Precious
Precious metals include gold, platinum, and silver (generally used in creating fine jewelry); pewter (used in creating accessories such as flasks and frames); and stainless steel and titanium (generally used in creating watch cases and bands).
Military or 24-Hour Time
Measurement of time in 24-hour segments. 12-hour time can be converted to 24-hour time, by adding 12 to any p.m. time. For example, 3 p.m. would be 1500 hours (3 + 12) in military time.
Millgrain Edge (Coin-Style Edge)
Knurled finish having the look of small beads or ridges similar to the edge of some coins.
Millimeter
Unit of measure used in determining the diameter of a pearl diameter. Equal to approximately 0.04 inch.
Mineral Watch Crystal
Watch crystal made of a mineral elements treated with heat that is harder than an acrylic watch crystal and resists scratching. When scratched, however, a mineral watch crystal is hard to polish clear.
Minute Repeater
Watch feature that can strike the time in hours, quarters, or seconds.
Mohs Hardness Scale
Scale developed by Friedrich Mohs for determining the relative hardness of minerals and other objects by assigning a number from 1 to 10 to specific minerals, ranging from softest to hardest, using a scratch test.
Moon Phase
Watch indicator for tracking of the phases of the moon during its regular rotation around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes.
Mother-of-Pearl
Iridescent lining or interior shell of a freshwater oyster that is commonly sliced thinly and used on watch dials. Although most mother-of-pearl is milky white, it can also appear silvery gray, gray blue, pink, or salmon colored. Can also be used in the making of a cultured pearl.
Mounting (or Setting)
Part of a ring holding the gemstone or gemstones in place. Usually made of gold or platinum. Several popular styles of mountings are the following:
Prong Setting
The gemstone is held in place by a number of metal prongs rising above the main body of the ring and bent over the stone to hold it in place. The number of prongs varies depending on the stone's shape and the height of the prongs above the main body of the ring.
Bezel Setting
The gemstone is held in place by a thin band of metal that surrounds the gemstone at its middle, or girdle. It can completely or partially surround the stone, depending on the style and look desired. This type of setting provides good protection for the middle and bottom (pavilion) portions of the diamond, can have straight or scalloped edges, and can be molded to many shapes of stones.
Channel Setting
The gemstone or gemstones are held in place by two strips of metal (gold, platinum, etc.) at the sides with no metal between the stones. This setting protects the girdle of the diamond and can hold small stones better than a prong setting. Channel-set gemstones sit flush with the mounting, making them less likely to snag on hair or clothing. The gemstone or gemstones In a channel setting, two strips of metal (gold, platinum, etc.) hold the gemstone(s) in place at the sides, with no metal between the stones. This type of setting protects the girdle area of the gemstone, as well as securing small stones more effectively than a prong setting. Channel-set gemstones also sit flush with the mounting, making them less likely to get snagged on other objects, such as hair or clothing.
Bar Setting
The gemstone is held in place by a thin metal bar on either side, so that each bar has a stone on either side of it. Often used in circular bands. Similar to a channel setting.
Pavé Setting
Used in setting diamonds, the diamonds are fit into small holes and set almost level with the surface of the ring in rows, with no metal between them, making it look as if the diamonds had been paved as part of a cobblestone road. Pavé is French for paved.
Tiffany Setting
A diamond is held up by four or six prongs to allow maximum light to enter the diamond from all angles and therefore maximum brilliance or fire. Very popular style for bridal rings originally developed by the founder of Tiffany & Co. in 1886. Six-prong settings are considered safer.
Movement
Mechanism by which a watch keeps time, sometimes including the power source. Mechanical movement watches produce accurate time using a unwinding mainspring and either require manual winding or a motion-sensitive rotor to wind the mainspring. Quartz movement watches produce accurate time using the vibrations of an electrified quartz crystal and are usually powered by a battery.
N
Nacre
Crystalline substance secreted by an oyster to form a pearl. Nacre crystals refract light to produce a pearl's color and luster.
Natural
Small, indented edge of the original rough diamond crystal left unpolished on the surface of the final, polished diamond. Usually positioned by the cutter in either in the girdle or the pavilion to it undetectable to the naked eye in the face-up position. Diamonds with higher clarity grades may have inclusions that are invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification. Also known as an indented natural.
Natural Pearl
A pearl formed naturally when a grain of sand or other small object enters the oyster and is coated with layers of nacre to form a pearl. Natural pearls are very rare. Because there is no way to determine if an oyster contains a pearl and therefore create a dependable supply, the culturing process was invented.
Needle
Minute elongated crystal in a diamond that resembles a tiny rod. Diamonds with higher clarity grades may have needles that are invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification.
NGL
Northwest Gemological Laboratories. Recognized authorities on grading diamonds and appraising jewelry.
Nickel
Metal sometimes used in alloys for jewelry but commonly the cause of jewelry allergies. Platinum, a jewelry metal containing no nickel and rarely causing skin reactions, should be considered when buying jewelry for someone with skin or jewelry allergies.
Nucleus
Object (often a bead or mother-of-pearl) artificially inserted into an oyster when making cultured pearls. The object eventually becomes the center or nucleus of the finished cultured pearl.
O
Omega Earring Back
Lever shaped like the Greek letter Omega (O) to hold earrings snugly in place using gentle pressure against the earlobe. Designed for comfort.
Omega Chain
Flat chain with a solid surface formed by the links. Often worn high on the neck.
Onyx
Semi-precious, naturally white or gray stone composed of chalcedony. The white variety is sometimes dyed black for onyx.
Opal
Non-crystalline, iridescent silica. Opal is the birthstone for October.
Opaque
A gemstone containing so many inclusions or flaws that light cannot pass through.
Open Work
Open ring setting that allows viewing of the bottom of any stone included in the setting.
Opera Length
Pearl necklace 32 inches in length.
Orient
Rainbow effect seen encircling a pearl's surface.
O-Ring
Rubber or plastic compound seals on the backs of watches featuring either a press-in or screw-on back to ensure water resistance. Also used on the knobs or winding stems of watches and in the winding crowns to protect against the water and dust.
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Oval Shape
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| Very popular shape ranging from nearly round to very elongated. When used in rings, a longer oval shape can accentuate long, slender fingers. |
Overtone
Secondary color in the color of a pearl, usually pink, silver, or blue. See also Body Color.
P
Patina
Unique, gentle sheen produced by daily wear on platinum surfaces.
Pavé Setting
The diamonds are fit into small holes and set almost level with the surface of the ring in rows, with no metal between them, making it look as if the diamonds had been paved as part of a cobblestone road. Pavé is French for paved.
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Pavilion
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| Bottom portion of a diamond, extending from the widest point of the diamond (girdle) to the bottom (culet). |
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Pear-Shaped Diamond
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| Fancy-shaped, brilliant-cut diamond with a rounded end and a single point, thus offering both the look of a round diamond as well as a fancy shape. In rings, the length of the cut creates a slimming effect on the fingers. |
Pearl Shape
Defined by the degrees of roundness, symmetry, and irregularity of the pearl. Round pearls are the most valuable.
Pearl Size
Diameter of a pearl measured in millimeters. Size is the most important factor in determining pearl price.
Pedometer
Device for counting the number of strides taken by the wearer by responding to the impact of the steps taken.
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Peg Setting
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| Setting for pearl stud earrings made by drilling a tiny hole halfway into the pearl and inserting a metal bar or peg. |
Peridot
Transparent, olive-green gemstone. Peridot is the birthstone for August.
Perpetual Calendar
Complicated calendar mechanism that can be programmed to show the year and month, including months with less that 31 days, and allow for leap years.
Pinpoint
Minute crystals inside a diamond that look like small specs under low (10x) magnification. Clusters of pinpoints form inclusions called clouds. Diamonds having higher clarity grades may have pinpoints invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification.
Platinum
Rare precious metal with a rich, white luster that is extremely strong, heavy, hypoallergenic, and resistant to tarnishing. Popular in gemstone settings (usually at 85% to 95% purity) for jewelry and watches. Because of the expense and rarity of platinum, many platinum watches are often produced in limited editions.
Point
Unit of weight for gemstones equal to one hundredth of a Carat. See also Carat.
Polish
In diamonds, the smoothness of the surface or facets of a diamond. Highly polished diamonds will reflect light better (known as the external reflection) and allow light to enter the diamond better for greater internal refraction and brilliance or fire. Diamond certificates or grading reports grade polish from ideal (ID) to excellent (EX) to very good (VG). Diamonds with polish grades of fair (F) or poor (P) should be avoided because the poor quality of their polish may affect the brilliance of the diamond.
In jewelry, the process used to make metal smooth and glossy, increase shine, and eliminate flaws.
Post
Pin-like piece or finding attached to an earring that passes through the pierced earlobe and often held in place by a back.
Power Reserve Indicator
Watch feature showing when the watch will soon need a new battery or winding. Similar to a battery reserve indicator on a quartz watch that informs the wearer when the battery is low. Often indicated by the seconds hand jumping in intervals of two or four seconds.
Power Reserve
The amount of time a watch will run after being fully powered or wound without any additional power, usually when a mechanical watch is fully wound or when a quartz watch has a new battery. Modern mechanical watches usually have a power reserve of 40 hours. Battery-operated quartz watches can have a power reserve (also known as the expected battery life) of 12 to 32 months. Battery-less quartz watches may have a power reserve of 40 hours to 6 months.
Precious Stones
Term used to designate diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. BrightDiamond.com uses this term to designate rubies, emeralds, and sapphires.
Princess Cut
Modified brilliant, square-cut gemstone. One of the most popular square diamond shapes.
Princess Length
Prong
One of several claw-like wires bent over a stone to hold it in place in a setting or mounting.
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Prong Setting
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| Setting in which the diamond is held in place by a number of metal prongs rising above the main body of the ring and bent over the stone to hold it in place. The number of prongs varies depending on the stone's shape and the height of the prongs above the main body of the ring. When a gemstone is set, each prong is bent to securely hold the gemstone by the crown. |
Proportion
The degree to which the parts of a gemstone are symmetrical compared to the whole.
Pulsimeter
Watch function on a chronograph for measuring pulse rate.
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Push Earring Back
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| Earring back with indents in the post and tension rings on the back to prevent the earring from slipping off. |
Push-Piece
Button pressed to work a mechanism on a chronograph, watch, or alarms.
PVD
Matte black coating that increases the scratch resistance of stainless steel watch bands while offering a more subdued look to a metal watch.
Q /a>
Quartz
Crystalline mineral used for affordable gemstones such as amethyst and rock crystal and available in a variety of colors. Q
Quartz Watch
Watch using a quartz movement to keep accurate time and powered by a replaceable battery or by body motion similar to automatic mechanical watches.
Quartz Movement
Electronic watch movement that keeps time using uses a tiny electrified quartz crystal vibrating at 32,768 times per second to produces time accurate within 15 seconds per month. Usually powered by a replaceable battery or body motion similar to automatic mechanical watches. Quartz movement is the most popular and least expensive type of watch movement.
R
Radiant Cut
Type of cut usually found in diamonds featuring trimmed corners. Radiant-cut diamonds are often set with baguette or round side-diamonds.
Rattrapante Chronograph
See Chronograph Rattrapante.
Rechargeable Watch Battery
A watch battery that is constantly recharging, either by using solar energy to turn light into power that constantly recharges a lithium-ion battery or by using the body movement of the wearer to turn the kinetic energy into power stored in a capacitor that powers the quartz movement.
Register
Another name for a subdial, a dial within the main dial of a watch. Chronographs often have several registers to measure minutes and hours. Some watches have registers that use pointers to show the day of the week and date.
Repeater
Device that sets the watch to chime at certain intervals of of time when activated. "Quarter repeaters" chime on the hour and quarter hour using two differently pitched tones. "Five minute repeaters" chime on the hour, quarter hour, and every five minutes after each quarter. "Minute repeaters" chime on the hour, quarter hour, and every minute after each quarter.
Report, diamond grading
See Grading Report or Certification.
Retrograde
Pointer hand on a dial or subdial that resets to zero at the end of a predetermined period of time. A retrograde date pointer returns to 1 after reaching the last date of the month (31, 30, 28, or 27).
Rhodium
Hard, white, metallic element used as a protective coating or finish on gold jewelry and to enhance the appearance of white gold. Resistant to oxidation and malleable only under extreme heat.
Ring Setting
The shank and the head of a ring that contain no center stone.
Ring Size
Measurement determined by the diameter of the finger on which the ring is to be worn and the of the knuckle over which the ring must slip over, generally ranging between 4 and 13.
Ring Guard
Ring worn above another ring to prevent the ring from slipping off the finger.
Rope
Pearl necklace 40 or more inches in length.
Rotating Bezel
Bezel able to turn in one (unidirectional) or two (bidirectional) directions for sports watches, especially watches for measuring time elapsed while diving underwater. See also Bidirectional Rotating Bezel and Unidirectional Rotating Bezel.
Rotor
Device in an automatic or self-winding mechanical watch that winds the movement's mainspring. The rotor is usually a flat, semicircle of metal swiveling on a pivot with the motion of the wearer's arm.
Round Diamond Shape
Classic diamond shape popular for diamond engagement rings. Based on the 57-facet design established in 1919 by diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky (see also Ideal Cut). A modern round diamond cut is graded based on the proportions and diamond quality standards established by the American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL).
Roundness, Pearl
Evaluation criteria for pearls on a scale ranging from all-round to mostly round to slightly off-round to off-round. For more information, read our education on pearl shape.
Ruby
Highly valued, usually red, precious gemstone. The red ruby is the birthstone for July.
S
Safety Clasp
Secondary hook to keep a necklace secured in place if the clasp accidentally releases. To open a safety claps, squeeze the arms of the hook to release, turn the hook to the side, and slide the hook from the lock.
Sapphire Watch Crystal
Watch crystal made from synthetic sapphires. Because only another sapphire or a diamond can scratch a sapphire watch crystal (9 on Mohs hardness scale), it is the most durable type of watch crystal and the top choice of watch collectors.
Sapphire
Highly valued, usually blue, precious member of the corundum group of gemstones. The blue sapphire is the birthstone for September.
Sapphlex Crystal
Highly scratch resistant watch crystal created by the fusion of sapphire and mineral glass crystal.
Satin Finish
Matte finish with soft, pearl-like luster created by sandblasting, brushing with a stiff wire brush, or altering a high shine surface chemically.
Saturation
Purity or degree to which the gemstone's color is free of brown or gray hues. Gemstones described as having vivid or strong color saturation show little gray or brown and are the most valuable.
Screw-Down Locking Crown
A crown sealed to the case of the watch to increase the watch's water resistance. The crown is sealed in place by matching a threaded pipe on the case with the crown's internal threads to lock it into place when twisted or screwed down.
Screw Earring Back
Earring back usually found in very expensive earrings that uses a screw post and back to keep the earrings in place.
Self-Winding
A type of mechanical watch movement wound by the motion of the wearer's arm instead of by turning the winding stem (a manual mechanical movement). The motions of the arm make a rotor in the watch turn that winds the watch's mainspring. See also Automatic Movement/Automatic Winding.
Semi-Precious Stones
Natural stones such as amethyst, aventurine, carnelian, garnet, opal, and rose quartzes. Can often be as expensive as precious stones.
Setting
Part of a ring holding the gemstone or gemstones in place. See also Mounting.
Shape
In diamonds, one of seven shapes: round (also called brilliant or full-cut), marquise, pear, oval, princess, heart, pear, and emerald. Different from the cut, which is ratio of proportions of the diamond arranged to refract light and create brilliance or fire. The most popular and commonly seen shape for diamonds is the round or brilliant cut. The choice of shape is often influenced by the marking of the original rough diamond by the cutter and/or planner when determining how to get the greatest size, fewest inclusions, and highest level of brilliance from the finished stone while wasting as little of the rare material as possible.
Shank
Part of the ring encircling the finger and to which the setting is attached.
Shock Resistance
Per U.S. Government regulations, the ability of a watch to withstand an impact equal to a fall from a height of 3 feet onto a wooden floor.
Shoulder
Part of the ring extending from the shank to the center of the setting.
Slide
An ornamental piece that can be slid onto another piece of jewelry, such as a necklace.
Slide Rule Bezel
A type of rotating watch bezel marked with a logarithmic scale and/or assorted other scales for use in performing general mathematical calculations or navigational computations.
Smoky Quartz
Brownish-colored quartz stone that has a smoky appearance.
Snap-Bar Closure
Straight, hinged bar able to lift up or down to fasten or release an earring.
Solar Powered
Type of quartz watch movement using batteries that are continually recharged by solar panels on the watch dial. Also has a power reserve to run while in darkness.
Solitaire
A single stone mounted in a simple setting.
Sparkle
Light refracting from a diamond to create brilliance or brilliance.
South Seas Pearls
Large-sized pearls created by oysters in the waters near Australia, Myanmar, Indonesia, and the Phillipines.
Split Second
Chronograph featuring using an additional flyback hand that can be stopped independently to measure a different interval of time and still be able to "fly back" to match up with the other hand. Useful in measuring individual lap times while simultaneously measuring the total race time.
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Spring Ring Clasp
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| Clasp consisting of a rounded, hollow, circular wire fitting into a hollow, circular tube that uses the pressure of a tiny spring to remain closed and that is opened when the arm is pulled backwards. |
Stack Ring
Rings designed to be worn simultaneously on the same finger.
Stainless Steel
Durable metal alloy containing chromium that is resistant to rust, corrosion, and discoloration, can be highly polished to resemble a precious metal, and is hypoallergenic. Often used in watch casebacks, even for watches made of other metals, and in bracelets.
Stamping
Cutting or embossing a sheet of metal using a punch or a die.
Step-Cut
Type of cut using a varying number of sloping parallel rows of four-sided facets to create the impression of steps.
Stopwatch
Watch with a seconds hand that measures intervals of time. Chronographs include a stopwatch feature along with standard watch features.
Strap
Band holding a watch to the wearer's wrist, usually made of leather, rubber, cloth, or another non-metallic material. Bracelets made of metallic materials are also sometimes referred to as the strap.
Strap Length
Length of the watch when measured from end to end. Most watches with metal bracelets are designed to be shortened, so removing links in the bracelet may be necessary for proper fitting.
Stud
Single stone or metal ball on a straight post worn in pierced ears.
Subdial
Small dial on the main dial of a watch used to display one of several features, such as elapsed lap time (on a chronograph) or the date.
Surface Markings
Imperfections on the surface of a pearl such as spots, blisters, or indentations.
Swiss AOSC (Certificate of Origin)
Mark certifying that a watch was assembled in Switzerland using only parts originating in Switzerland. Primarily found on Bedat watches.
Symmetrical
In pearls, a pearl with similar characteristics on opposite sides.
In diamonds, the specific mathermatical proportions of the facets, especially the alignment of the facets on the bottom (pavilion) with the corresponding facets on the top (crown). Symmetry is graded in a diamond certificate or grading report on a scale ranging from ideal (ID) to excellent (EX) to very good (VG). Diamonds with symmetry grades of fair (F) or poor (P) may misdirect light so severely that their ability to refract light is affected to the point that their brilliance or fire is diminished.
T
Table
Large, flat, horizontal top facet of a diamond through which refracted light shines as a diamond's brilliance or fire.
Table Percentage
The width of the top or table of a diamond relative to the width of the diamond at its widest point (girdle). A table percentage that is too small or too large can affect the diamond's ability to disperse light refracted within the diamond properly and diminish the diamond's brilliance or fire.
Tachymeter
Watch function that measures the rate of speed traveled over a measured distance in a particular length of time, usually used to measure great rates of speed. Often featured in chronographs with a graduated dial indicating kilometers per hour, miles per hour, etc.
Tahitian Pearls
Silver-gray to purple-black pearls grown mostly in French Polynesia. Large in size and popular for their exotic colors.
Tank Watch
Rectangular watch with heavy bars on either side of the dial to resemble tank tracks that was designed by by Louis Cartier after World War I.
Tantalum
Metal similar to titanium in texture but similar to gold in color. Used in some titanium watches to create gold-like trim.
Tassel
Ornamental bundle of loosely hanging threads bound at one end.
Teardrop
Shape of diamond also known as pear shaped. See Pear-shaped.
Telemeter
Chronograph watch function used to determine the distance of an object from a point by measuring how long it takes sound to travel the same distance. Similar to a tachometer in consisting of a stopwatch function and a special subdial.
Tennis Bracelet
Flexible bracelet composed of evenly matched stones, usually diamonds, with some variations featuring alternating stones.
Timer
Device used to measure intervals of time without no indication of the time of day.
Titanium
Ultra-light, silver-gray metal that is 30% stronger than steel, 50% lighter than steel, hypoallergenic, and resistant to salt water corrosion (making it preferable in sports watches used for diving). Used in wedding rings and watch cases and bands as well as in surgical screws and hardware. Sometimes coated to resist scratching because titanium can be scratched easily.
Tone
Classification scale indicating color intensity in gemstones on a range of light to dark.
Tonneau Watch
Watch featuring a barrel-shaped watchcase and two convex sides.
Topaz
Wine-yellow, transparent gemstone that can also be found in other colors such as white, blue, brown, orange, and pink. Blue topaz is the birthstone for December.
Totalizer
Mechanism that tracks elapsed time as displayed on a subdial on the watch dial. Also known as a recorder or register. A totalizer can also be used generally to refer to any counter on a watch.
Tourmaline
Commonly pink or green crystalline mineral often used as a gemstone that also appears in a variety of colors.
Twinning Wisp
Inclusion in a diamond appearing as a visible line inside the diamond that resemblies a ripple produced by an irregularity in the crystal structure. Diamonds having higher clarity grades may have twinning wisps invisible to the naked eye or difficult to see under low (10x) magnification.
U
Ultrasonic Cleaner
Device for cleaning jewelry using ultrasonic waves to to loosen dirt and buildup. Jewelers use professional-grade ultrasonic cleaners, but there are several affordable models of ultrasonic cleaners designed for home use available in small-appliance stores.
Unidirectional Rotating Bezel
Bezel able to turn in one direction for sports watches, especially watches for measuring time elapsed while diving underwater. An elapsed time rotating bezel moves only in a counterclockwise direction to prevent a diver from accidentally knocking the bezel from its original position and overestimating his remaining air supply. The bezel only moves in the direction that would cause the diver to err on the side of safety when timing his dive. Many rotating bezels are ratcheted to lock into place for greater safety.
Unobtanium
Unique material (trademarked by Oakley) promoted as similar to but stronger than rubber and used in watches designed for high performance sports and activities.
UTC
Universal Time Coordinated. Universal time based on the Greenwich Meridian used by the military and in aviation. Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) is considered approximately equivalent to Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). UTC has replaced GMT because it avoids the errors and problems associated with the different time zones and summer times operational in different countries.
W
Water Resistance
Level of protection a watch has from water penetration and damage. Different watches offer different levels of resistance depending on the intended usage, with specialized diving watches offering the greatest resistance to water penetration and damage at the depths indicated.
White Gold
Alloy of gold, nickel, copper, and zinc used in jewelry. To enhance the whiteness of 18-karat gold (75% gold) and 14-karat gold (58.3% gold), rhodium is plated over the alloy. The rhodium plating may wear off, revealing the yellowish color of the alloy and creating potential jewelry allergies by exposing the nickel in the alloy to the skin, but re-plating is a simple procedure.
Width
The horizontal measurement of an earring, bracelet, or necklace. The width of a ring is considered to be the top when worn on the finger. Any band or ring is measured across the widest area on the top. Settings are measured across the widest metal part, closest to where the center diamond is set. All measurements of width are approximate.
Winding Stem
Button on the right side of the watchcase used to wind the mainspring. Also known as a crown.
Winding
The tightening of a watch mainspring of a watch either manually using a crown or automatically using a rotor made to swing with the movement of the wearer's arm.
World Time Dial
Dial usually found on the outer edge of the watch face that tells the time in up to 24 time zones around the world, with the time zones represented by the names of prominent cities printed on the bezel or dial. The time in a particular time zone is determined by looking at the scale next to the city that the hour hand points to. Feature found in watches known as "world timers."
Y
"Y" necklace
Necklace featuring a delicate dangle that forms a "Y" around the neck. Usually 16 to 18 inches in length.
Yellow Gold
An alloy of gold, silver, copper, and often zinc.
Yacht Timer
A countdown timer that sounds warning signals during the countdown for a boat race. See also Countdown Timer.